Joel’s neighborhood — particularly during World Cup time this June — and interest in travel to Spain both inspired me to research Portuguese cuisine a few months ago. The result: seafood, seafood, seafood. Which, OK, is delicious, but Joel can’t eat it and I haven’t been eating meat. So I abandoned hope.
But two days ago I was randomly inspired to visit Toronto’s Venezia bakery for some fresh Calabrese bread. Incredibly airy, it tastes as though it was injected with freshness instead of thoroughly yeasted — like a baguette but so much better at it. I also happened to notice “bean tarts” — among the customary cheese and egg tarts, plus something called “beer tarts” — on the shelf, and had to try them. Needless to say (I am blogging about them, after all), they were wonderful. The gelly consistency didn’t taste like beans at all; instead they were sweet, caramelly, almost like a savoury plum, if such a thing can be imagined. I must make these, I said.
Many hilarious Google-translated pages later, I stumbled on a recipe that I think will do the trick:
queijadas de Feijao
2 cups of cooked lima beans
3 cups of sugar
1 stick of butter
8 whole eggs
4 egg yolks
2 tbs of port wine
Basically (summarized from the translations) you caramelize the sugar, add the butter, then the pureed beans, then the eggs and port and beat until it resembles custard. Yum!
BUT I can’t just make something normally, right? So I plan to add caramelized onions and whatever strikes my fancy at the market. Roasted red peppers and a streaking of the famous Portuguese piri-piri (hot sauce) would be excellent, but so would mangoes (maybe with some cilantro?) or some lime and orange (perhaps candied for a deeper taste).
I think also that I will use a crust recipe found very randomly on recipezaar that calls for:
3 cups flour
1 egg
1 cup mashed cooked squash
. . . because it’s a no-fat, easy alternative to making a crust. I’m awful at crusts, and the Portuguese bakeries are so prolific, that it’s just better not to.
As an interesting side note, there are a large number of varieties of Asian candies and tarts based on red beans. Internet forum-users inform me that this is because of Portuguese colonization; but given how unnaturally proud North American-Portuguese are of their soccer team, I will reserve judgment on that one. Whomever invented it was really on to something, though.
I will report back on how it turns out!


